🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might expect familiar award-winning names. But, situated prominently among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu found in a far-flung part of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. This honour has made the owners utterly astonished.

“I am utterly shocked,” states the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble place achieving such a prominent ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which was a basic cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Creed of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel very proud of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a life outside work but her friends would visit to encourage her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is likely to resonate outside its own walls. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.